Tuesday, February 22, 2011

Buying A Home in Northern Virginia

This is a site to help you understand the home buying process.  Not always a good idea to go into this process blind, so below are steps that layout the whole process from start to finish.  Enjoy!















Self Assessment       Home Shopping        Choosing an Agent      Home Appraisal
Geting Pre-Approved                                                                    Home Inspection
Types of Mortgages                                                                   Final Walk-Through
                                                                                                  Closing / Settlement

Tiffany Jacobs
“Always Exceeding Your Expectations”

 
RE/MAX Olympic
9214 Center Street #100
Manassas, VA 20110

Cell: (571) 209-8133
Fax: (703) 656-4651

Email Me

Self Assessment

Starting a home-shopping / home-buying process means answering a lot of questions. Are you ready to buy a home? How much of a mortgage can you afford? How’s your credit? What size house do you need? What area do you prefer to live in? How are your cash reserves?

The more Q&A, research and soul-searching you do in advance, the smoother the process will be later on. Let’s look, then, at some key questions you should ask yourself in the self-assessment phase.

What Can You Afford?
Before house hunting, determine how much of a mortgage you can comfortably afford. “Comfortably” means you can pay your mortgage each month and still have money for living expenses, savings, and quality-of-life niceties. In other words, you don’t want a mortgage payment that forces you to “squeak by” each month.

To determine your mortgage comfort-zone, you need three things: a budget, a price and a mortgage calculator. For the price, just start with the cost of a house you think you might be interested in buying.

At first, don’t worry about whether the price is too high — you’ll find that out soon enough when you run the numbers.

Next, run the home price through a mortgage calculator at current interest rates and at a 30-year fixes mortgage. (You might choose a different mortgage type later on; but this exercise is just to get a ballpark mortgage payment based on home price, so choose the 30-year fixed option for the sake of simplicity.)

Mortgage calculators can easily be found on the Internet. Just type “mortgage calculator” into any major search engine, and you’ll find several.

Sample Mortgage Calculation
Let’s say I’ve done some research and found that a home in my preferred area with the number of rooms I want, and offering the features I have in mind, comes to about $500,000. I plan to get a loan for 80% of this amount and then split the remaining 20% between a down payment and a second mortgage.


Side note: If your down payment is less than 20%, most lenders will require that you pay mortgage insurance (see glossary at the end of this guide). One way to get around this is to obtain a second mortgage from a second lender. A common example is the 80-15-5 breakdown; which means 80% from a primary lender (first mortgage), 15% from a secondary lender (second mortgage), and 5% down payment (out of pocket).


Getting back to our calculation, I want to find out what my mortgage payment would be on $400,000 (80% of the home price of $500,000). So I go to http://lahomefinder.com/calculators.html — one of many mortgage calculators online — to run the numbers.

For “principal,” I enter $500,000. For “interest rate,” I enter 6.25%, which is the current interest rate at the time of this writing. Most mortgage calculators will have this field filled in for you, based on current rates. For “number of years” I put 30.

Remember, we’re just trying to get a ballpark monthly mortgage payment. There are many different loan types to choose from, but for demonstrations purposes we’ve chosen a common type of mortgage (30-year fixed).

I hit the “Calculate” button, and this is what I get:

Your Monthly Payment for 30 Years
for an Interest Rate of 6.25 %
on a $500,000 home with 20% down payment:
$2462.87 a Month


I would run these numbers through at least one more calculator, just to validate them. Then I would repeat the process for my second mortgage amount. Of course, if you can afford to put 20% down and avoid the second mortgage scenario, the math is much simpler.

Now I can more accurately figure this price range into my budget — a quick and easy way to see if I’m in or out of my comfort zone, and to find out exactly what my comfort zone is in the first place.

We will talk more about mortgages in Part 7, “Types of Mortgages.” How’s Your Credit?
Continuing in the self-assessment phase, you need to take a good, hard look at your credit situation. Try to do this a few months before beginning your home search to prevent delays later on. Start by ordering copies of your credit report.

Credit reports are maintained by three credit agencies: Experian, Equifax and TransUnion. These agencies maintain any and all information pertaining to your personal credit — payment habits (including late payments), bankruptcy and other issues.

Your credit score is based on the information in your credit reports, which come from the three aforementioned agencies. Three agencies, three reports, three credit scores ... all about you!

Get copies of your credit reports from all three agencies and review your scores. Fair Isaac’s — the organization that actually converts your credit reports into credit scores — has a website where you can order all three credit reports at once: www.MyFICO.com. Here’s a quote from the home page of that website:

“FICO scores are your credit rating. Most lenders base approval on them. You have three FICO scores, one for each credit bureau, and you can only get all three from myFICO.”

The MyFICO website also explains how to interpret your credit score, what the score means to lenders, and what you can do to improve your score. Don’t be surprised if you find an error. It happens from time to time. To correct an error, contact the reporting agency directly. And don’t delay — it may take several months to completely correct the error and remove it from your report.

Do You Have Cash Reserves?
Your lender will also want to see that you have funds in the bank. Lenders know that the home-buying process requires cash reserves for the down payment and closing costs. They also prefer to see some stability with your reserves, meaning the money has been in the bank for a couple months or more (as opposed to being loaned to you by a family member the day before you applied for the loan).

Closing costs usually include the appraisal fee, loan fees, attorney's fees, inspection fees, and the cost of a title search. They can easily add up to $5,000 to $7,000 (or up to five percent of the mortgage amount).

Once you’ve conducted a self-assessment and determined you’re ready to move forward, a logical next step would be to get pre-approved by a mortgage lender.

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Tiffany Jacobs
“Always Exceeding Your Expectations”

 
RE/MAX Regency
10550 Linden Lake Plaza
Manassas, VA 20109
 Office: (703) 656-4650
Cell: (571) 209-8133
Fax: (703) 656-4651
Email Me

Getting Pre Approved

Part 2. Getting Pre-Approved
First off, let’s cover the difference between pre-qualification and pre-approval. Many people think these things are the same, but they’re not. Pre-qualification is based on a quick review of your finances and credit. Pre-approval looks at everything regarding your finances, debt and credit. Think of pre-qualification as a “quick review” from the lender and pre-approval as a longer, more detailed review.

Here’s a more formal definition of pre-approval, taken from the glossary at the end of this guide: Pre-approval: The process of applying for a loan and obtaining approval for a maximum loan amount before having a purchase agreement.

When you get pre-approved for a home loan, the lender will look at your income, debt and credit, among other things. This review will give you a good idea how much of a mortgage you can afford.

Being pre-approved also shows sellers you’re serious about (and capable of) buying their house. This can be a factor in hot markets where the sellers receive multiple offers. For example, if you bid on a home along with three other prospective buyers, but you’re the only one who has been pre-approved by a lender, then you stand the greatest chance of having your offer accepted.

The sellers will be more comfortable with you since a lender has said, in essence, “Yes, this person is worthy of a home loan.” The buyers without pre-approval, on the other hand, would be “unknown quantities” to the seller.

Pre-approval also helps identify credit problems early on. If you missed something when reviewing your credit during the self-assessment phase (Part 1 of this guide), the pre-approval process will bring it to light.

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Types of Mortgage Loans

Fixed Rate

A fixed-rate mortgage offers an interest rate that will never change over the life of the loan. The primary benefit is that if interest rates increase during the term of your loan, your rates stay the same.

On the other hand, if interest rates drop during the term of your loan, your rates still stay the same (unless you refinance your home at the lower rate). This is the biggest difference between this loan and variable / adjustable loans (see next item).

The length (or “term”) of a fixed-rate mortgage can be 15, 20 or 30 years. Each of these terms has its pluses and minuses:

•30-year fixed rate — The 30-year term gives you maximum tax advantage by having the greatest interest deduction. It’s also worth noting that the 30-year fixed-rate loan is often the easiest type of loan to qualify for.
•20-year fixed rate — If you shorten your mortgage, you usually get a lower interest rate. The 20-year mortgage is not as common as the 30-year, so you’ll have to shop around to go this route.
•15-year fixed rate — Same benefits as the 20-year term (quicker payoff, lower rates), but will increase the monthly amount you pay.
Adjustable rate (ARM)

The adjustable rate mortgage (or “ARM”) offers a fixed initial interest rate with a fixed initial monthly payment. “Initial” is the key word here, because after some predetermined initial period, the loan is subject to changes in market conditions.

The initial interest rate you pay will probably be lower than a fixed-rate mortgage; but the uncertainty, of course, comes after the initial period. This type of loan is usually a good option for buyers who only plan to stay in a home for a short while.

In other words, if you turn around and sell the house before the initial fixed-rate period expires, you’ll benefit from the lower rate and be out before the uncertainty sets in.

How often the interest rate adjusts with an ARM depends on the terms of the loan. Take the 5/1 ARM as an example. 5/1 means your interest rate would stay the same for the first five years and then adjust each year starting at the sixth year. A 3/3 ARM would offer an initial fixed rate for three years and would then adjust every three years starting at the fourth year.

Balloon Loan
The balloon loan is a short-term, fixed-rate loan that lets you make small payments for an introductory period of time. After the introductory period – usually five, seven or ten years – you must refinance or pay off the remaining balance with one lump-sum (“balloon”) payment.

Government Loans (FHA, VA, RHS)

FHA Loan – A loan insured by the Federal Housing Administration, open to all qualified homebuyers. There are limits to the size of FHA loans, but they are usually enough to cover most moderately priced homes. FHA loans also offer low down payments (usually 3-5 percent).

VA Loan – A long-term, low or no-down-payment loan guaranteed by the Department of Veterans Affairs. Because this loan is insured by the VA, it has the added benefit of zero down payment. This type of loan is only available to qualified military veterans who have obtained a certificate of eligibility from the Department of Veterans Affairs.

RHS Loan – The Rural Housing Service (RHS) loan offers low interest rates with no down payment. It is available to households with low to moderate income located in rural areas or small towns.

How large of a down payment do I need?
Some mortgages only require a down payment of 5% of the purchase price. Of course, the more you put down, the less you’ll have to borrow, and the more equity you'll have (not to mention a smaller mortgage payment each month).

If you put less than 20% down, you’ll most likely have to pay mortgage insurance to secure the loan. Lastly, when figuring out how much you want to put down, remember that you’ll also need money for closing costs, moving expenses, decorating, etc

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Home Shopping

Part 4. Home Shopping
Location
Your first step here is to figure out what city (or town) and neighborhood you want to live in. Regardless of whether or not you have school-age children, try to buy in a district with good schools. If you sell the home in the future, a strong school system will be a major advantage in attracting buyers and getting top dollar.

Your real estate agent should be available to give you at least the basic information about schools in the area.

Type of House
Next, try to determine what kind of house will fit your wants and needs. This will help you narrow your search, and it will help your agent pull recent sales information on similar types of homes. At a minimum, ask yourself the following questions:

•One story or two?

•How much space do I need now?

•How much space will I need in a year or two, or three?

•What features do I want in a home?

•What architectural styles appeal to me?
Write down as many characteristics as you can think of. Categorize them as either “must have” or “would be nice to have.”

Next, get out there and search! Your agent will help you a lot in this regard, but don’t stop there. Drive through neighborhoods. Read the “Homes” or “Real Estate” section of your newspaper. Your dream home won’t find you … you have to find it.

When you actually start touring homes, take your priority list of size, style, features, etc. Compare each home against the list to see if it offers the things most important to you.

But don't be too quick to reject a house if it doesn't at first measure up. You can always build a deck or update a kitchen. If you find a house that excels in all other areas but lacks one of the items on your list, ask yourself: “Is this something I can add on myself?”

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Choosing an Agent

Part 3. Choosing an Agent
Why Use an Agent?
Even with the wealth of information available on the Internet these days, it’s a good idea to have an agent. The fees you’ll pay an agent are nominal when you consider what all an agent can do for you. Buying a house is a monumental event that can affect you for years to come — an agent can help you make sure it’s a positive event. Among other things, a good agent will act as your home-buying expert, tour guide, negotiator, paperwork administrator, and, most importantly, your trusted advisor.

Additional Benefits of Having an Agent

•They can help you understand the different financing options available to you.
•They can likely refer you to a lender who can help pre-qualify you for a loan.
•They almost always have access to the Multiple Listing System (MLS), an electronic listing of homes for sale by other agents.
•They may know of homes for sale in the area that are not yet being marketed.
•They can help you stay on track throughout the buying process, with the many appointments and events the process brings.
•They will handle all the home-buying paperwork … and there’s a lot of paperwork.
•They can help you negotiate with sellers.
•They can help you determine the realistic value of homes based on recent sales in the area.
How to Find an Agent?
Seek referrals from friends who have bought homes in the area. Look on the Internet. Look in the “Homes” or “Real Estate” section of your local newspaper.

The ideal agent knows the local area well. And most importantly, he or she listens well and respects your needs and limitations. Trust your instincts. If an agent makes you uncomfortable for any reason, find another one. To use an agent with full knowledge and experiece of Northern Virginia, you will never go wrong with Tiffany Jacobs.  Let her show you what she can do for you. 

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To Start Your Home Search

Tiffany Jacobs
“Always Exceeding Your Expectations”

 
RE/MAX Regency
10550 Linden Lake Plaza
Manassas, VA 20109
 Office: (703) 656-4650
Cell: (571) 209-8133
Fax: (703) 656-4651
Email Me

The Appraisal Process

Part 8. The Appraisal Process
Appraisal involves your lender verifying the value of the property you want to purchase. Appraisals are an estimate of the value performed by a Certified Real Estate Appraiser (CREA) who is licensed by the state to do this. The appraiser will look at your property inside and out. He will examine sales records for nearby comparable properties over the last 6 months ("comps"). Photographs will be taken and eventually a full report will be prepared and forwarded to the lender. For a residential property, the usual cost for this service is between $250 and $400. In some cases the lender may also wish to have a surveyor examine and certify the property's boundaries.

Sometimes problems come up: what if the property appraises for less than the price you have agreed to pay? Then the seller will have to lower their price, or you will have to pay more cash at down payment, because the lender is not going to lend more than a certain percentage of the value.
Title search/abstract and title insurance have been covered by me in previous articles, so here I will just briefly reiterate that the purpose of researching a property's title is to ensure that the lender is not going to lend money to you against a property that may already have prior encumbrances such as unpaid taxes, liens, zoning issues, lawsuits, etc. The title company will research the property title and certify it free of problems and then issue a title insurance policy. Just remember that title insurance does not cover future events, like life or auto insurance. It covers past events!

Flood certification is always required to insure the lender that your area is not in a flood-prone area. Flooding is usually not covered by your homeowners hazard insurance policy, so if you are in an area likely to be flooded, experience hurricanes, etc., then you will be required to purchase flood insurance.
While an appraisal will certainly be required, you may want to protect yourself by having an independent home inspection performed. Especially if you have no experience in the building trades! Some lenders and states actually require this to be done. The inspector will look at the home's foundation and roof and systems such as plumbing, electricity, heating and air-conditioning. If there are serious defects, bring these to the seller's attention as needing repaired prior to sale, or negotiate the selling price down in compensation. Get repair estimates in writing to strengthen your position when discussing this with the seller. A professional home inspector will probably charge from $200 to $400 or more for very large or complex homes.
After the appraisal has been done you and the lender will have a definitive idea of the property's value and now you can start shopping for homeowners/hazard insurance. You will be required at closing to show that this coverage has been purchased. Do not leave this item in the lender's hands to do for you because policy costs can vary widely. Shop around and be sure to ask about discounts for alarm systems, deadbolts, hurricane shutters, impact glass windows, etc. I have a separate article about purchasing homeowners insurance so I will nor cover this extensively herein, except to say that you can usually choose a "Replacement Value" policy for older homes full of furniture, appliances, electronics, etc., or choose a "Cash Value" policy which accounts for depreciation of contents over time. An old computer would be seen to have no remaining value and would not be replaced, for instance. Cash value polices are cheaper.

Unforeseen problems: As the lender's underwriters process your loan, things can come up. Condominiums, for example, can be a problem. In a condo purchase you are only purchasing the interior space. The outside of the building belongs to the association as a whole. With a townhouse you may also have garage space and a small front and/or back yard area that is your own private property. The value of this space you will own can be affected by what is going on in the condominium as a whole. The lender will usually have you take a questionnaire to the condominium association to be filled out. They will not want, for instance, to see that more than half the units are rented versus being owned. Renters tend not to care for their units and thus bring down property values for everyone else. Lenders will also want assurance that the association's management is competent, has an adequate maintenance budget, carries adequate insurance, etc. What is a storm blows off the roof or a fire 2 units down engulfs your unit?

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